M9 For dwarf trees in smaller gardens 6-9 feet/2-3 metres.
Trees coming into full cropping in 3-4 years and bear larger fruit.
Can be trained as step over trees
MM106 For bush trees growing to 12-15 feet in maturity depending on variety. Trees start cropping in two years from planting and are in full cropping after 5-6 years. Can be grown as a bush tree or trained as cordons or espaliers. Fruit can be grown in the lower half of the tree and can be picked from the ground.
M25 a vigorous rootstock used to grow the traditional standard apple tree. Trees will reach upwards of 20 feet in height and come into cropping after five years. Generally recommended by DEFRA for stewardship schemes.
The higher canopy will allow under grazing by stock permanent guards are advisable.
Heavier crops are obtained when apples are pollinated by another variety of apple. This occurs best when flowering periods coincide or overlap, to achieve this choose varieties with the same or adjacent flowering periods.
We offer three varieties of crab apples that flower freely and will increase fruiting in your orchard.
Trees are supplied as bare root maidens at least 4 foot tall generally taller one year old from grafting, a two year old root system. They should be planted between December and the end of March. The roots must not be allowed to dry out. Do not plant in waterlogged or frozen soil. The planting hole should measure at least 2 foot diameter and comfortably accommodate the roots. Fork the bottom and the sides of the hole to improve drainage and allow the roots to spread outwards. Mix in a handful of phosphate based fertilizer e.g. superphosphate or bonemeal. Secure the stake then plant the tree on the leeward side of the stake. Firm the soil around the roots as you backfill. Bring the soil level upto the original soil level on the tree. Attach the tree to the stake using a tree tie, attach the rabbit guard and apply a mulch of compost or well rotted manure, do not mound this up the trunk.
Fruit trees are hosts to an abundance of wildlife a lot of it beneficial or benign.Try not to spray routinely,avoid tar oil winter washes. Be vigilant and observe your trees regularly identify the problem choose a safe method of treatment. This is particularly so when the trees are young , as they get older they can cope with some problems.
List of Problems
Distorted young leaves and growth - Aphids\greenfly - Solution: Soft soap sprays. Sprays containing Pirimicarb available from garden centres
Brown spots on leaves and fruit - Apple scab - Solution: Caused by damp weather Some varieties are more susceptible, do not store this fruit
Leaves brown and wilting / Fruit drops in June - Shortage of water - Solution: Water and mulch
White deposits on leaves and stem - Powdery Mildew - Solution: Occurs in dry spells. Cut out infected wood. Water and mulch. Sprays available
Young leaves folded together and webbed - Tortrix moth caterpillars - Solution: Remove and squash
Caterpillars within the apples - Codling moth larva - Solution: Use pheromone traps available in garden centres that trap the male in June\July and stop them breeding
Brown papery lesions on the stems - Canker - Solution: Cut out as soon as seen where it occurs on the trunk scrape away with a knife and treat with armillatox. Lime around the tree
Brown cavities within the apples - Bitter pit caused by shortage of calcium and water especially on large apples - Solution: Lime in winter keep watered in July August if practical
Tree doesn’t put on much growth each year - Many possible causes but with young trees can be due to competition - Solution: Has the grass has been kept back for a metre around the tree
Not much fruit - Many possible causes. Poor pollination. Few bees flying. Frost. - Solution: Consider planting a few crab apples. Improve shelter with living windbreaks. Varies from year to year depending on timing